The Hairy Science of Hair Care – Morning Sign Out at UCI

Written by Jacob Liu and Edited by Mehr Kaur Bawa

Hair—we’ve all got it, but whether we take good care of it is a completely different story. From unruly masses of grease to wild manes of flyaways, hair encompasses a diverse range of appearances. Caring for one’s hair can seem to have infinite dimensions, but the process may be simplified for some to the steps of washing with shampoo and conditioner and choosing to use a hair dryer for drying. As cosmetics become more accessible and appearances continue to be an important aspect of one’s life, science has begun to weigh in on this topic for proper maintenance of one’s hair health.

Shampoo is generally considered a standard in hair care as it serves to clean hair of excess grime and grease, including sebum, the natural oil produced by our bodies [1]. From a chemical point of view, shampoo contains molecules known as detergents—or surfactants—which are amphoteric, meaning that they attract both oils and water [2]. As such, surfactants allow shampoo to bind to the oils in hair and to be washed out with water [3]. However, other components in the shampoo, such as foaming agents, thickeners, opacifiers (which make the shampoo opaque instead of translucent), and fragrances, can create a misconception of cleaning hair while in actuality, not contributing to cleaning [2]. Thus, shampoo shouldn’t be selected solely based on its appearance of cleaning, but more so on its contents of surfactants to effectively clean hair.

Although sebum is removed by shampoo, a significant lack of sebum leaves hair looking dull, coarse, and difficult to style. To a degree, conditioner mimics the natural effect of sebum in hair by introducing anti-static and lubricating components; these components contain special silicones—large, positively charged polymers that counteract negative charges that build up in hair [2]. Thanks to the conditioner, your hair is more easily manageable, glossy, and less conductive of static electricity, which makes it more cosmetically appealing [3].

Despite the benefits of washing and conditioning, excessive washing may be detrimental to one’s hair health, as according to the Academy of Dermatology, the recommended amount of washing and conditioning is dependent on how oily one’s hair and scalp are [4]. Because of unique individual needs, even basic procedures like using shampoo and conditioner can result in diverse regimens of hair care.

Beyond washing and conditioning hair, a very important aspect of hair care is drying. A study conducted by the Korean Dermatological Association (KDA) tested hair dryer usage at variable heats and distances from hair and compared it to ambiently drying hair. By observing the structural integrity, appearance, and moisture content of hair samples after repeated shampooing and drying, the KDA concluded that the hair dryers used were not universally detrimental. Although using a hair dryer at a distance of 15 centimeters with a continuous motion to prevent excessive heat on one area was noted to be less damaging than letting hair dry on its own, using a hair dryer otherwise was often found to be more damaging than drying hair without the use of a dryer [5]. Thus, while using a hair dryer might dry hair quicker, it may lead to additional damage to hair instead of caring for it if used excessively on one region of hair.

Future research into the science of hair care can investigate personalized, tailored hair care regimens based on an individual’s hair type, hairstyle, daily routines, and other factors. As of now, although there exists specific treatments that might produce certain beneficial cosmetic effects, there are also potential detriments associated with the treatments. For now, the current system of a general regimen of moderate shampoo, occasional conditioner, and gentle drying remains essential for basic healthy hair care, which may then be further specialized according to individual needs.

References

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